So, a puffer’s outer either has to work well underneath a waterproof shell or have a good level of water resistance itself and be treated with a good durable water repellent (DWR) finish.ĭurability also applies to the outer, in that it needs to be rugged enough to withstand snags on thorns while taking the dog for a walk, or being taken in and out of a day pack when hiking. Of course, all this talk of down in a puffer is rather useless if it gets wet, as the down’s loft collapses, reducing the effectiveness against cold. Where the manufacturer decides to place the baffles is very important and will determine how effective the coat is in the cold, with well thought out placement and construction eliminating cold spots. No matter what the filling, it will be held in place by baffles, which is what makes a puffer jacket, well, puff, as well as ensuring the down stays in place and provides all-over insulation. However, not all the jackets we tested had this rating, as some were filled with synthetic down rather than the traditional goose or duck variety. The higher the fill power, the more air pockets in the down, and the warmer the jacket will be for its weight. Whether you’re halfway up an alpine peak or shivering in the away end of a football pitch on a Saturday afternoon, a down (or puffer) jacket can really take the edge off when the temperature starts to tumble, and they’ve come a long way since they made their way off the mountain and onto the high street.īefore we get into that, let’s get technical for a second and talk about “fill power” – not the latest World Darts champ, but a measurement of the jacket’s all-important insulating profile.
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